Ryanair.con

Being in a particularly grumpy mood today (yes, it's probably the weather) I decided to look for a refund from Ryanair for the taxes they charged me for 2 flights I did not use.
Should be simple enough - I bought the flights on line using my credit card, so I'll go on to their website, log in the flight details and they will refund my card for the taxes that they did not have to pay because I didn't travel!
30 minutes later and I can not find any information about how to get my money back - although I can book a car, a hotel, buy vouchers and of course cheap(???) flights. Their website is still working at a snails pace and now keeps changing into different languages sometimes when I press the "back" button.
So, I decide to ring Ryanair instead. The problem is there is nobody home! At least nobody to answer the phone, I waited on the line from 15.15 until 15.38 - 23 minutes, listening to a message once a minute telling me "Thank you for calling Ryanair. Your call is in a queueing system, please hold for an operator".
Ryanair don't have an email address, they don't answer the phone, so how am I going to get my money back?
OK, it's not the AMOUNT of money that's worrying me, it's the principle, it's the fact that it's MY money and not theirs, and they are not entitled to pocket it, and they are making it almost impossible for me their customer to get a refund.
Is this called "robbery"? Is there no law against this practice?